Wood lathe turning

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lathe

 

A wood lathe is a machine tool which spins a block of wood in order to cut it, remove material from it or shape it to create an object which has a symmetry about an axis of rotation.

A woodlathe has an adjustable horizontal metal rail called a tool rest which is located between the material and the operator and accomodates the positioning of hand held shaping tools.

Sand paper can be pressed against the still spinning object after shaping to smooth the surface of the object.

Wooden lathed bowls

Turned wood object.

 

Wooden lathed Russian dolls.

 

Vacuum Forming

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vacuum_forming

http://www.formech.com/industry.php

Vacuum forming is an industrial process where a sheet of thermoplastic is heated to a forming temperature dependent on its thickness.

Once heated the plastic will be stretched over a mould .It is a cost effective process.

The stretching of the material is possible because of the application of a vacuum created between the mould surface and the plastic sheet.

 

Problems with vacuum forming:

Sheet does not pull down over the mould:

Air may be trapped between the mould and the sheet.

Check that you have enough evacuation holes

The sheet may not be hot enough increase heating time

The clamp frame may need replacing

The vacuum pump filter may need cleaning

The sheet may be cast acrylic which is not vest for vacuum forming

Sheet burns or blisters:

The sheet has become too hot

The sheet may be hygroscopic and moisture in it causes blisters

If sheet is over 5mm it will need more time for the heat to soak all the way through

Reduce power and increase heating time

Sheet pulls out of clamp frame when raising the platen and mould:

The sheet is not positioned correctly

The sheet is not hot enough increase the heating time

The material may not be vacuum formable

The mould may be too large or the edges too close to the perimeter of the forming

aperture. Modify the mould design

Webbing occurs on the finished forming:

The sheet is too hot and it has sagged during heating. Reduce heating time

The design of the mould may need to be modified

Forming will not release from the mould:

There may be undercuts on the mould which are holding the forming in place

The forming may have srunk onto the mould start the blow cycle early

The mould material may have bonded with the forming material

Put a thin coating of silicone oil on the mould before forming

The mould is too hot, turn the machine off and wait for the mould to cool off

before attempting another forming

The mould surface is too rough, make sure there is an even finish on the mould before

vacuum forming.

 

Vacuum forming process.




Vacuum forming shoe polish display.




Vacuum forming egg box.




Vacuum forming fruit trays.


Sheets for vacuum forming.

 

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HistoryUpdated Dec 5, 2008 9:46 AM by izzy…

 

Injection Moulding

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Injection_molding

 

Injection molding is a manufacturing process for producing parts from both thermo-plastics and thermo-setting plastics materials. Molten metal is injected at high pressure into a mold. Mold are made in steel or aluminium.

injection moulding

Injection moulded tennis raket frame




Materials for injection moulding process


injection moulded novelty items

 

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Dip Moulding

The process of dip moulding is now used to coat components such as measuring equipment, computers and vehicles. The process of dip moulding is fast. Tools are heated, dipped into a liquid PVC plastisol, taken out. cured, cooled and removed from the tool to create plastic mouldings.

Prototypes can be made easily so the designer is able to make modifications without great expense.

The plastisol material used determines the physical attributes such as hardness and resistance to heat, oil or chemicals. The time the tool stays in the plastisol determines the wall thickness of the moulding which has a normal range of between 1mm to 4mm per dip.

The tool with the plastic coating that represents the moulding, is then moved to a curing oven where it is again heated before travelling to a cooling tank to prepare it for stripping, a process that removes the moulding from the tools. Post moulding operations such as punching, trimming and printing can then be performed and modifications to the part made.

 

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Sand Casting

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sand_casting

 

Sand casting is an ancient technique of using moist and tightly packed sand to press around a model which is then removed leaving a mold cavity to be filled with molten metal.

Which metals can be used to sand cast?

Aluminium, Bronze, Pewter. Silver and Iron.

Two types of sand are used for sand casting:

1: Green sand, a mixture of silica sand, clay, moisture and other additive.

2: Air set sand, a dry sand bonded with other materials than clay using a fast curing adhesive.

Casting sand is commercially available. The finer the sand is the better definition will be achieved on the casting.

The consistency of the sand is very important. If the snad is worked too wet, it will desintegrate once the object is removed to reveal the mold cavity. The consistency of the sand can be evaluated by squeezing the sand into a ball. The sand should then hold itself together in the ball shape.

Sand casting involves a frame wood or metal box called the flask made of two parts ( some more complex casting may require a three or more parts mold). The parts of the frame are called drags( which is the frame without pins) and cope( which is the frame with the locating pins).

Casting an object:

1: Set the drag onto a flat surface such as a sheet of wood.

2: Fill the drag with moist cast sand packing it down tightly with a block of wood.

3: Spray paint the object to be cast if its surface is uneven or use shellac or varnish to seal it.

4: Once the drag is packed up to its surface, level it with a piece of wood by dragging it across its surface in order to remove excess material and create a flat surface.

5: Lay model in the centre of the sand and push gently half way into the sand. Sometimes tools may be used to remove some of the sand in the cavity mold since the packed sand can be difficult to give under the pressure of the object.

6: Sprinkle pounce onto the snad and object. Pounce is a powder used to keep the two frames from sticking together once they are filled with sand. Talc, chalk dust or graphite can be used for this purpose.

7: Use a gauze material to fill the pounce such as muslin.

8: Locate cope and drag using the wooden pins.

9: Sprinkle sand over object and pack frame up to its top surface as previously.

10: Remove cope and carefully take away the object without destroying any of the packed sand.

11: Create a gate with a scalpel (a 3mm channel) which source will be located right at the edge of the object.

12: The channel is created in the drag.

13: Create a pouring cup in the cope using a metal tube and pushing it all the way down the tickness of the frame.

14: Replace cope unto drag.

15: Use a welding rod to create air vents called runners around the object by pushing the wire all the way down the thickness fo the cope.

16: Melt pewter or other metal into a furnace or ladle.

17: Pour molten metal into pouring vent.

18: Let it cool dowm until the metla has solidified.

19: Open the two parts frame and remove the cast object.

20: Rinse the object under clear water to remove any sand particles.

21: Use a metal brush to clean sand away from tiny spaces if necessary.

22: Using a hacksaw cut off excess of metal created by the pouring vent.

23: The object will have inherited the surface of the sand.

24: Finish the object by mashining using files to create a smooth surface.

Sand casting drag and cope.




Sand casting molds.


Sand casting diagram1.




Sand casting pour.


Sand casting with cavity mold.




Sand casting diagram 2.



Sand cast cast iron object.

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Sandblasting

Sandblasting:

ttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sandblasting

 

Sandblasting is the process of smoothing, shaping and cleaning a hard surface by forcing solid particles across that surface at high speed usually with compressed air.

The work is located inside the sandblasting unit which is now securely closed.

The operator's hands are fed through flaps located at the front of the machine.

Inside the blasting unit a gun is directed towards the work and operated by pressing the pedal on the right front of the machine.

This activates the release of the abrasive sand for sandblaster or glass beads as used in a bead blaster.

A sandblaster is used the clean sand and irregularities from foundry castings, remove paint, etch or frost glass, cut through glass and form patterns having concealed some area of the material with tape and sandblasting the exposed remaining.

 

Sandblasted cylinder.






Architectural sandblasting on glass.

 

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Metal Spinning

pinning is a metalworking process where a disc or a tube of metal is rotated at great speed and formed into an axially symmetric part using a tool called a spoon.

The mandrel or spoon can be made of hardened steel for spinning aluminium or brass for spinning stainless or mild steel.

Spinning can be a hand process or a CNC process

 

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Metal_spinning

 

metal spinning.

metal spinning.

Metal lathing

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lathe_(metal)

 

A lathe is a machine that spins a block of metal in order to cut it, drill it, thread it, or shape a metal block using various cutting lathe tools.

Metal is removed from the workpiece using a hardened cutting tool which is usually fixed to a solid moveable mounting called the toolpost.

The toolpost is moved against the workpiece using handwheels and / or computer controlled motors. Cutting fluid may also be pumped to the cutting side to provide cooling lubrication and clearing of swarf from the workpiece.

Brass candle holder

Metal lathed shaft

 

Lathed CNC Metal part-auto turning

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Fly-pressing:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Flypress

 

A fly press is a metalworking machine used to shape metal by deforming its plasticity.

It is frequently used to punch holes in sheet metal in one operation rather than cutting the hole or drilling. The machine is manually operated.

The fly press works by using a coarse screw to convert the gross rotation of an overhead handle into a small downward movement with the force multiplied up considerably.

The overhead handle is counterbalanced using a flyweight.

The flyweight helps to maintain the momentum and thrust of the toll as it punches or compresses the material.

If used a a punch, the tool itself consists of a punch and a matching die into which it closely fits. Both are precision machined and then hardened.

The material is introduced between the punch and the die and the machine is operated.

The punch will cut through the material in one movement by shearing it.

The punch and die may be of any desired shape allowing odd shaped holes and cut outs to be performed.

Fly pressed part.

Fly pressed sculpture Wayne Victor Meeten.

 

Fly press.

 

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Enamelling

Enamelling is the technique of fusing a glasslike compound on to a metal base.

There is little difference between glass, enamel and ceramic glaze apart from the fact that enamel withstands the metal stresses (expansion and contraction) occuring during and after the firing in the kiln.

The kiln should be pre-heated to 800 degrees C. Most enamels fire at around 780 degrees C but as the kiln loses heat when the door is opened to place and retrieve the work , the firing temperature is about right.

The shorter the firing time the better as this gives more brilliance to the colour than a long soak.

Opaque mature at a slightly lower temperature than transparents and these should fired for a shorter time.

It is always better to under-fire in the first firing, to stabilise the colour which would tend to burn out with progressive firings if the first one is over- fired.

The prepared piece should be placed in the centre of the kiln to ensure an even firing. The temperature in the kiln tends to vary quite a lot from front to back.

As a guide to the firing time, one can count to 20 seconds and then take the piece out. If the enamel is lumpy and does not have a high gloss finish , it has not been fired long enough.

Traditional techniques of enamelling are:

Cloisonne where the enamels are separated by wires.

Champleve where the metal has been etched and these lower levels of metals are then filled with enamels.

Basse-taille where the metal is raised and depressed using the technique of chasing, repousse, carving, engraving and the whole area is then enamelled with transparent enamel.

Scrafitto where the second layer of applied enamel is allowed to dry and is then scratched to reveal some of the base coat.

Plique a jour where the enamel is suspended within a frame work created by piercing out openings in the metal or using wires to build up a design.

Grisaille where a layer of black enamel is applied and subsequently layers of thin white opaque enamels are built up

 

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vitreous_enamel

 

enamelling

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Electroplating:

Electroplating is the process of using an electrical current to coat a conductive object with a layer of metal so it does not corrode . It is also used to protect an object from wear resistance. For example some people are allergic to silver because of its nickel content so the piece of jewellery might be electroplated with rhodium.

 

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electroplating

Electroplating on Metals with electrophoretic lacquer.





Electroplated padlock



Plastic electroplating

 

Electroplating process.

 

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where can I buy wood?

WOODFORGOOD:

http://www.woodforgood.com/about-us/

About us

wood for good is the UK's wood promotion campaign.

Our objective is to increase the value of wood sold in the UK by promoting wood's role in sustainable construction and in helping to mitigate climate change.

It is the largest timber industry campaign ever undertaken in the UK and has been running since 2000.

To find out more about wood for good click on one of the headings to the left.

Our commitment

All members are committed to sustainable forest management. In each of the members' countries credible third party schemes are now operating and increased areas of forest are being certified.

UNIONVENEERS:

http://www.unionveneers.com/

UV Group

20 Rigg Approach

Leyton

London E107QN

02085568866

info@uvgroup.com

 

PLYBOO AMERICA:

http://www.plyboo.com/

Plyboo Authorized
Distributor

Bettencourt Green Building Supplies
matt@bettencourtwood.com
800.883.7005

Smith & Fong Plyboosales@plyboo.com
Toll Free: 866.835.9859
Fax: 415.896.0583

Ecotimber:

http://www.ecotimber.co.uk/

UV Group
Ecotimber Ltd
Precious Woods Europe
PO Box 129
NL-2410 AC Nieuwerbrug a/d Rijn
NetherlandsE

Sales department:Mr. Albert Oudenaarden
Tel: 00 31 348 684104
Fax: 00 31 348 688142
sales@preciouswoods.

PLYBOO NETHERLANDS:

http://www.plyboo.nl/bic/6_kontaktinfo.html

Bamboe Informatie Centrum Nederland Dorpsweg 125 NL - 1697 KJ Schellinkhout The Netherlands		0031 (0) 229 - 50 13 09 0031 (0) 229 - 50 19 70 office@plyboo.nl http://www.plyboo.nl/
Office: HIGH LINE DESIGN - Parkett Intarsien Bambus Schloss Aschhausen D - 74214 Schöntal Deutschland		0049 (0)7943 - 94 24 08 0049 (0)7943 - 94 24 11 buero@plyboo.de http://www.plyboo.de/
Office and Warehouse: PLYBOO Zentrallager Europa Attergaustraße 117 A - 4880 St. Georgen im Attergau Österreich		0043 (0) 7667 - 20666 0043 (0) 7667 - 20666 28 office@plyboo.at
Office and Warehouse: PLYBOO Vertrieb Schweiz über Kundert + Co. Joweid Zentrum 1 CH - 8630 Rüti - ZH Schweiz FSC: http://www.fsc-uk.org/ FSC UK, 11-13 Great Oak Street, Llanidloes, Powys, SY18 6BU UK Tel : +44(0)1686 413916 info@fsc-uk.org About FSC FSC is an international, non-governmental organisation dedicated to promoting responsible management of the world's forests. It was founded in 1993 in response to public concern about deforestation and demand for a trustworthy wood-labelling scheme. There are national working groups in 28 countries including the UK. FSCUK is a registered charity. It is supported by NGOs including WWF, Greenpeace, Friends of the Earth and the Woodland Trust. FSCUK Working Group is legally and financially independent of FSC international. It sets forest management standards for the UK, promotes the system and provides an information service. T:0041 (0) 55 251 40 30 F:0041 (0) 55 251 40 38 info@plyboo-bambusparkett.ch Timberweb: http://www.timberweb.com/ For well over a decade TIMBERWeb® has been the leading Global Timber and Lumber Marketplace on the Internet. It provides an unrivalled Networking Environment for Sellers to find new Buyers and Buyers to find new Suppliers by offering different levels of membership according to the level of access and presence on the site that is required. Unsurprisingly it survived the dotcom downturn at the turn of the millennium and has grown since to a membership approaching 20,000 from nearly 200 countries. Hardwoodinfo: http://www.hardwoodinfo.com/ Hardwood Information Center 400 Penn Center Blvd., Suite 530 Pittsburgh, PA 15235 412.829.0770 Toll Free: 800.373.WOOD Fax: (412) 829-0844 Goodtimber: http://www.goodtimber.com/ t: 01327344550 info@goodtimber.com Bendywood: http://www.bendywood.com/ Z.I Via Johann Kravogl 10 39042 Bressanone (BZ) Italy T: 390472834530 S.L. Hardwoods: http://www.slhardwoods.co.uk/ S. L. Hardwoods 390 Sydenham Road Croydon CR0 2EA Tel: 020 8683 0292 Fax: 020 8683 0404 Email:info@slhardwoods.co.uk We are located in Croydon, south London, England. Our Factory and shop is located in Sydenham Road, Croydon - just 5 minutes walk from Selhurst Train station. We are the largest quality hardwood suppliers in South London. Situated near Croydon, we supply timber locally and across Great Britain. We started off as a JSM Joinery, a company which produces high-class purpose made joinery for the construction industry, but 3 years ago we set up the sister company S. L. Hardwoods, offering joinery quality timbers to the public, hobbyists, and small builders. After a while, we began to realise the beauty and fascination of exotic timbers, and so started offering a range of turning & carving blanks in a wide variety of species, as well as exotic boards for furniture making. Crown Tools Veneers Mylands Polishes Adhesives Bandings & Inlay Virutex Banders & Trimmers Flexi Veneer Ecological Statement: Although much has been written in the media about deforestation and the world's shrinking forests, more countries are now actually planting more trees than ever before. In addition, exisiting forests are being carefully managed and harvested to ensure that our global environment is protected. Even with these facts, many people have chosen to use other materials instead of timber, such as plastic, steel, and aluminium but these are finite and non-renewable. Through their production and consumption they have a greater impact on the envioronment than timber. Because of current legislation, and our care for the environment, we never buy timber which isn't from a properly managed and sustained source. So when you buy timber from us you can be sure that you are not harming the environment.

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Where can I buy felt?

Naish Felt Ltd:

http://www.naishfelts.co.uk/

Foam, Felt, Cork, Rubber, Adhesive Tapes,
Non-Wovens and most flexible materials

Foam, Felt, Cork, Rubber, Adhesive Tapes,
Non-Wovens and most flexible materials

Foam, Felt, Cork, Rubber, Adhesive Tapes,
Non-Wovens and most flexible materials

ADDRESS: Crow Lane Wilton Salisbury Wiltshire SP2 0HD
T: 01722 743 505

Fax : 01722 744 048

British Felt Co.

http://www.britishfelt.co.uk/

Our aim is to provide component solutions for modern manufacturing industries.

We are experienced in the conversion of engineering textiles such as wool and synthetic felts, non-woven fabrics, expanded foams and rubbers and both single and double sided adhesive tapes.

We believe our conversion equipment is amongst the most advanced available throughout Europe and includes both Rotary and Flat Bed equipment.

This allows us to convert both plain and self-adhesive flexible materials with economy, high speed and precision.

We can convert both plain and self-adhesive materials into gaskets, washers, strips, discs and pads.

We are also precision converters of kiss cut components (peel-able products from reels) and can offer anti-squeak and vibration control solutions for both the Automotive and Electrical manufacturing sectors. We offer adhesive tapes in the following materials: - Cellular PVC's - Single and Double Sided Cellular Rubbers - Single and Double Sided Cloth - Mainly Single Sided Cork - Mainly Single Sided Felt - Mainly Single Sided Flock Fabrics - Mainly Single Sided Foil - Mainly Single Sided Non Woven Fabrics - Mainly Single Sided Polyester & Tissue - Double Sided Polyethylene Foams - Single and Double Sided Polyurethane Foams - Single and Double Sided Scrim Backed - Double Sided Suede - Mainly Single Sided Transfer - Pure Adhesive no carrier British Felt Co14 Drakes Mews Crownhill Milton Keynes MK8 0ER United Kingdom Tel : +44 (0)1908 263304 Fax : +44 (0)1908 263305 E-mail :sales@britishfelt.co.uk McCulloch and Wallis. http://www.macculloch-wallis.co.uk/ 25-26 Dering Street London W1S 1AT Off Oxford Street half way between Oxford Circus and Bond Street tube stations Shop Opening Hours Monday-Wednesday10am-6pm Thursday10am-7pm Friday10am-6pm Saturday10.30am-5pm Contact Us Tel: 020 7629 0311 Fax: 020 7491 2481 Since 1902 MacCulloch & Wallis has supplied the fashion trade with fine fabrics and trimmings from the same central London premises between Oxford Street and Bond Street in the heart of Mayfair. The shop still looks much the same as it would have done in the decade before MacCulloch & Wallis moved in when a cross-legged tailor sat in the window plying his trade. We still sell many of the same products in much the same way as we have for over a century and constantly battle to sustain supply of elusive traditional products whilst regularly adding new items sourced from all over the world. If you think anything is missing from our unique and extensive product range we would welcome your suggestions sent to macculloch@psilink.co.uk. John Lewis. http://www.johnlewis.com/default.aspx?source=35530 John Lewis Oxford Street London W1A 1EX Mon: 9.30 - 8.00 Tues: 9.30 - 8.00 Wed: 9.30 - 8.00 Thurs: 9.30 - 9.00 Fri: 9.30 - 8.00 Sat: 9.30 - 7.00 Sun: 12.00 - 6.00 TEl: 020 7629 7711

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